Maison Margiela Artisanal Collection 2024
In an innovative fusion of fashion, storytelling, and immersive art, The Maison Margiela 2024 Artisanal Collection was screened at the Student Center South Theater on October 28th . This special viewing, a collaboration between The Dress Code Club and UHABJ University of Houston Association of Black Journalists, allowed college students, Margiela collectors, and fashion enthusiasts to experience the art of couture through a film of the runway show and the behind-the-scenes documentary, Behind the Moment.
As the evening unfolded, the atmosphere buzzed with anticipation, setting the stage for a journey through Margiela's enchanting world. The evening began with an exhibit showcasing iconic Margiela pieces curated by Luis Ruiz, founder and owner of Petra Stellam. Highlights included signature items such as the 1990’s split-toe tabby shoes, a breathtaking feathered coat of ostrich plumage, and a pointillist-inspired shirt. Each piece layered nostalgia with artistry, setting the stage for the film and immersing the audience in the Margiela aesthetic before the cinematic experience took flight.
The show opened with "Lucky Love," where music wrapped around the audience, binding them to the fabric of Galliano's artisanal collection. This theme was further illustrated by a choir that signified collective expression, transitioning into a music video featuring a man in corsets navigating dark alleyways—oscillating between conventional and unconventional expressions. His masked visage and the constricting corsets symbolized a duality of freedom and entrapment, where kisses signified a transcendence of beauty and transformation that remains ineffable. This initial performance set the tone for a night that would explore the body as a canvas, manifesting emotions through fashion and music.
As the film rolled, viewers were transported into Galliano’s extravagant realm of high fashion, where each model became a character bursting with intensity, turning garments into vessels of raw emotion. The venue was reimagined as part Parisian underbelly and part art installation, creating an atmosphere of mystery and allure. Galliano’s designs embraced a duality—smooth fabrics contrasted with rugged textures, corsets hinted at both beauty and restriction, and masks concealed while adding an enigmatic allure. This tension between freedom and confinement served as a commentary on individuality and self-expression.
With the rising bass of Adele’s Hometown Glory, the actual fashion show ignited, merging sound and vision in a harmonious spectacle. Galliano's reinterpretation of classic Margiela was unmistakable. Models wore pieces that merged Margiela’s legacy with Galliano's fresh aesthetic, presenting silhouettes that defied traditional gender norms and celebrated unconventional beauty. Each garment told a story, with accessories that seemed to have their own narratives.
This was not merely fashion; it was world-building.
Every piece hinted at a larger story of rebellion, mystery, and elegance. As the show began, a hush fell over the audience, each college student enveloped in their own unique fashion aesthetics, drawn into the captivating world of the runway. Their anticipation was palpable, drawing them into a shared experience where personal expression and high fashion collided in an exhilarating moment of unity.
Then came the showstopper: Gwendoline Christie, world renown actress most notable for her role in Game of Thrones, whose unforgettable look captivated the room, encapsulating the essence of the collection in a single breath. A true showstopper that combines an exquisite, avant-garde silhouette with elements of both regality and rebellion. Featuring a sheer, structured bodice layered over visible corsetry, the outfit balanced delicacy with architectural precision. The high-neck design extended into long, sheer sleeves, adding an ethereal quality that contrasted with the underlying rigidity of the corset. A voluminous skirt flowed in layers of translucent fabric, creating a mesmerizing play of opacity and transparency with each movement. Christie’s hair, styled in tight, vintage-inspired curls, framed her face, enhancing the surreal and haunting aesthetic. She carried a small, transparent handbag that complemented the airy textures of her ensemble, while white stockings and heeled boots grounded the look with a modern edge. Altogether, the outfit transformed her into a powerful character from Galliano's theatrical world—a figure both ethereal and imposing, blurring the lines between fashion and performance.
But the night didn’t end there; it blossomed further with Behind The Moment, the documentary that followed the runway film, offering a peek behind the curtain of this artistic endeavor. Galliano spoke about his inspirations, particularly the “cabinet of curiosity” that shaped his intricate corset designs. Drawing from the iconic work of Italian photographer Brassaï, the design team approached each piece with the meticulous care of art historians, adding layers of meaning and experimentation. Techniques like retrograding were employed to reveal hidden textures, creating garments that felt both timeless and experimental, blurring the lines between history and innovation.
This glimpse into the Margiela 2024 moment revealed not just fashion but human connection and craftsmanship intrinsic to the show. Galliano and Kate’s discussion of their collaboration underscored the importance of inspiration—how each creative thought can foster new ideas. Their dialogue on corset training highlighted how this collection redefines the human body, celebrating inclusivity across all body types and races. Christie emphasized the collection's inclusivity, noting its impact on the representation of diverse heights and body types.
“I am extremely tall and I’m certainly not sample size” said Christie.
The interweaving of historical references, particularly the Brassaï photographs, speaks to the collection’s dialogue between past and present, manifesting in experimental silhouettes that amplify each model’s individuality.
As if stepping out of a surreal dream, the makeup elevated the entire experience, showcasing Pat McGrath's groundbreaking glass skin technique. This revolutionary artistry transformed the ordinary into the extraordinary, granting models a porcelain doll-like appearance that resonated with the collection's enchanting spirit. Rooted in the delicate beauty of China dolls, McGrath's innovative approach pushed the boundaries of traditional makeup artistry and inspired influencers to explore new aesthetic realms. Each model embodied this dollish quality, their luminous skin becoming a canvas that emphasized the collection's themes of transformation and artistry. This striking look not only captivated the audience but also sparked trends across social media platforms, making the intricate craftsmanship accessible to all.
And isn’t that the essence of fashion?
Creativity springs from anyone, anywhere; inspired by anyone or anything.
For the college students in attendance, the Maison Margiela 2024 Artisanal Collection showing and exhibit transformed high fashion into something deeply personal and universally accessible. It left them enveloped in a sense of mystery and wonder, much like the lingering afterglow of closing a beloved novel, where the story continues to dance in the imagination The screening served as a stepping stone, weaving the avant-garde into accessible spaces, where fashion reveals its enchanting power as an art form that transcends convention, igniting the imaginations of college students and inviting all to dance through its vibrant realm of creativity.
Written by Kelsey Middleton
Edited by Kayla Ruvalcaba
Editor’s Note:
Congratulations to Kelsey Middleton, the winner of The Dress Code Club’s recent journalism competition! Her outstanding work and unique perspective earned her a well-deserved feature on our website. We’re thrilled to showcase her talent and can’t wait to see her future contributions to the world of journalism.